The simmering steak and the celebratory trader: You cannot have one without the other. (What else would you consume to mark an historic market killing? A tofu salad and a Tab?) To commemorate this time-honored union, we outfitted the maître d’s at Manhattan’s most venerable steakhouses in a few of this season’s finest suits — and received, in return, their expert advice, both epicurean and sartorial.

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